Tadoussac, Baie Comeau & Matane, on the Gaspe Peninsula

Curses, foiled again! We headed out from Quebec City northeast along the St. Lawrence but we hardly got started and rain began to drizzle down and the fog rolled in, so what should have been a very scenic drive with some whale watching opportunities was instead a kind of dreary, foggy trip. The beast (truck) earned its keep today, we’d hardly get down one hill and it was up the next, most were 11% grade. Like pulling the Dunvegan Hill over and over again, Denis was worried about the transmission. We started the day with a visit to the Girardin House in the Beauport area of Quebec City. Denis mother’s maiden name was Girardin, but her family came from St. Pierre & Miquelon, so this must have been another branch of the family. It is typical of the French colonial architecture and the museum houses information on the families who settled the area. We also visited the Montmorency Falls, higher than Niagara but a fraction the width, there’s a bridge over them then a lot of stairs down (once again I forgot to count) and then a cable car back up to the top. That’s when the rain started so you couldn’t tell if it was the spray or the rain that was getting you wet. Then we stopped at a copper artist workshop and I managed to resist a beautiful rooster, it was $1,795 so that made it easier. Next stop was Ste. Anne de Beaupre, a huge cathedral and shrine, by that time the rain was pretty heavy and we couldn’t park our caravan within two blocks so we settled on a drive by visit. We were on the lesser byways again and came across Chez Marie, a small shop selling maple products and baking. Along this road we saw some outdoor, brick ovens one was actually across the road from the house. There were also root cellars built into the hill across from the houses, each one had a plaque from a preservation society and telling who they belonged to. We continued down the road and are camped tonight at Tadoussac after crossing Ste. Catharine’s Bay on a ferry. We can hear horns from the ships on the St. Lawrence. From the info I have, Tasoussac is a member of the World’s Most Beautiful Bays Club and the Association of Beautiful Villages of Quebec, I hope the fog is gone tomorrow so we can see it.

Just a little damp at Montmorency Falls

After a gentle rain overnight, we woke up to a clear, sunny morning! Our campground was on the heights above the village and when Denis checked the lookout he saw whales in the bay, by the time I got there they had departed. We drove down and found a place to park, no mean feat, and walked around the bay; took a short hike out to the point between Tadoussac Bay and Ste. Catharines Bay. We saw an old trading post and the oldest wood frame church built in Canada. Then down the road to a lighthouse at Cap de Bon Desir, where we walked out and sat on the rocks and looked for whales again. We stopped in Les Escoumins at a poissonnerie had chowder for lunch and bought some halibut for our supper. We stopped at a truck selling strawberries from Ile d'Orleans and smoked salmon. After lunch we continued on to Baie Comeau.  We dropped the trailer off and drove around town, Denis oogled the Alcoa plant from all angles. There’s also a big Cargill facility and right in the middle of town, a pulp mill! What with the power plant just before town that's four pretty major industries. We headed back to the trailer and decided we'd better make a reservation on the ferry to Matane for Wednesday (day after tomorrow). There was nothing available until Sunday, but we were welcome to come down and wait in the line-up to see if there was space for us. We were a little stressed at the thought of sitting here for 6 days so we scrambled  and headed to the ferry expecting to be turned away but we got on. By the time they measured us and made sure the propane was turned off, we drove onto the ferry and they closed the door and we were under way, a very quick departure from Baie Comeau. Our halibut will have to wait until tomorrow. That puts us in Matane Monday night instead of Wednesday afternoon and Denis didn't get to tour the Manic 2 dam site. Oh well, c'est la vie! I'm sure we'll find some interesting things on this side of the St Lawrence.

On the Gaspe Peninsula

Three Days in Quebec City

We drove to Levis which is across the river from the old part of Quebec City, parked and took the ferry across. $20 to park and the return ride but cheaper and less hassle than trying to take the truck over there. We spent quite awhile exploring Petit Champlain as the lower area of the city is called. It has very old buildings (many dating from the 1700's) with shops, bistros and pubs and a lot of tourists wandering the narrow cobblestone streets. Also we found another funicular but the line up was half a block long before you even got in the building so we wandered along to the stairs. We heard they are called break neck stairs and I'm sure they would be in the ice and snow. We strolled along the Dufferin Terrace which is below the Chateau Frontenac and the Citadel overlooking the St. Lawrence and the lower town. We walked up more stairs (a lot more) and around the wall of the Citadel and onto the Plains of Abraham. On the way up we passed a wooden ramp which is a toboggan run in the winter. The Summer Festival is on and the main stage is on the Plains, but a sound check was the only thing going on until later in the day. We watched a film on the history and took a bus tour with a guide in period costume portraying the role of Abraham, he told us we didn't look like we'd be successful colonists we were not very appropriately dressed. It was very interesting, too bad the kids can't learn Canadian history this way. We explored the area around city hall and the legislative assembly, there are statues and fountains everywhere. We finally stopped for some sustenance at a sidewalk bistro where we could people watch. There are street entertainers on nearly every block. It was a bit of a late night (11:00).


Street in Petit Champlain



My favourite street performer

Our plan was to ferry across again and get to the Citadel in time for the changing of the guard but parking issues etc. we didn't make it. We did tour the Citadel and Denis toured that museum and the Plains of Abraham museum. We both went to the Martello tower museum and had a closer look at the Joan of Arc Garden. By that time I was pretty sunburned so we stopped at the Chateau for refreshment, very nice but I think Banff Springs and Chateau Lake Louise are nicer. We gave up early and came back to the trailer about 6. We had just arrived when two couples from Edmonton came over to chat. They were waiting for us the previous night but we came home too late, actually they thought we hadn't come home at all. They are business partners in the vac truck business and have done work for Access Pipeline. They're going as far as PEI in 6 weeks, 4 adults and 6 kids, big undertaking!



Chateau, Legislative Assembly, Petit Champlain from ferry

Enjoying a little refreshment, this was not at the Chateau

Today we did make it to the changing of the guard with over an hour to spare! I can't imagine parading around in those uniforms with a huge bear hat on your head in this heat. Nor would I want to be the goat major, he's in charge of the regimental mascot, a goat named Baptiste (gift from the queen). We wandered more quaint streets and checked out a few shops, Denis hasn't found a Quebec t-shirt he likes yet. We came back early, Denis has some chores he wants to do and I need to do laundry (where I met a lady from Namao). Denis just informed me that we have put on over 7000 km zigzaging our way here.

Baptiste & his entourage

Denis with his new buddy
 

Strange medium but is it art?

Trois-Riviere, Shawinigan & Chemin du Roy (King's Way)

Another hot sunny day and we decided to explore the old town (Trois-Riviere) on foot. After a bit of maneuvering, we found a place to park truck and trailer  I found the neatest little shop, where the young woman repurposed clothes, great window display! We could do this girls (with your ideas and my skills).

Window Display (sorry for the reflection)

Denis saw a ship named Pacific Basin and wondered if someone forgot to tell them that the St. Lawrence Seaway doesn't connect with the Pacific! We took a break at a sidewalk cafe for a café latte glace and shared a chocolatine, very tasty. Before leaving the area we visited Les Forges du Saint Maurice, the birthplace of the iron/steel industry in North America. It's a very peaceful park but you can imagine the activity in smoke and heat that was there 300 years ago.

Then it was down the road to Shawinigan, for a 'Handshake'. After a false start we headed to Le Trou du dialbe (Devil's Hole) and Denis finally got his 'Handshake'.  We tried to go to a bakery in Grand-Mere but some small businesses here are closed on Tuesdays.



Some of  you will remember the inspiration for this

So, is that glass half full or half empty?

We headed south to Champlain and got on the Chemin du Roy, maybe it was fit for a king when we had a king but it's definitely the road more potholey and scenic. We stopped at a fromagerie and bought some award winning cheese. We skirted the west end of Quebec City and crossed the Pierre Laporte bridge and are camped to the southwest in St Nicholas

Today there was rain in the forecast so we drove to the Ile D'Orleans the rain didn't materialize but it was very windy. The island is in the middle of the St Lawrence just east of the city, 34km long by 8 km at the widest part. It was settled in the 1600's so very impressive old churches and traditional French architecture; and strawberry fields forever! Main industry today is tourism, you can hardly go a 1/2 km without a restaurant, fruit stand, winery or historic site and there was one microbrewery where we had lunch. We had a good day and not too many of the 600,000 tourists who visit each year were there today.

Montreal Day 3 & Trois-Riviere at a slower pace

Our last day in Montreal, of course we tried to fit in everything we had missed. We drove to Jean Drapeau Parc, on Ile Sainte-Helene, one of the islands where Expo 67 was held. On the way there we admired Habitat ’67. There was a lot of activity even early, a festival was going on (Columbian, Dominican & Eurofest). After we found parking we visited the Biosphere, a Bucky Ball, which was the US pavilion in ’67. We wandered around and tried to see more of the Expo sites but some were fenced off because later there was an event (Piknic Electronic) not our speed. We took the metro, bus and shank’s pony (my mother’s saying meaning walking) to Les Main Deli (across the street from Schwartz’) and had another smoked meat sandwich. Then hopped a bus, which we knew was going the wrong way but we thought we’d see a different part of the city. We did see little Italy but then we had to get off because the run ended. Caught another bus back to Place des Arts, checked out the jazz festival awhile.

Admiring the 'Bucky Ball'

Denis was wanting some authentic Quebec beer so we took the metro to Les 3 Brasseurs, got a great table by the open, roll up garage door. We could have stayed there and enjoyed the beer and people watched but across the street was a blues bar so we headed there and for more refreshment and some live entertainment. Denis still wanted to go to Olympic Stadium so we took the metro that way and were lucky that the funicular (combination elevator & railway) was still running so we went up the tower. It is 165 m high and the incline is 45^o, it holds the Guiness record as the highest inclined tower in the world. Spectacular views of Montreal and a very entertaining young guide. Then we headed back on the metro to take an evening bus tour of the highlights at night, it was a double decker bus with open top and very few passengers. One of the sights was the casino (the French pavilion from Expo) beautifully lit up.

The funicular goes up the other side

By that time we were two very tired tourists! Took the metro back to the island to pick up the truck. When we came up from the train there were police and security barricading the entrance/exits, the festival was just over and there were thousands of people milling around, some trying to get on a train and some just wanting to continue the party. A bit intimidating but we got the truck and headed back to the rural tranquility of our campground. We just about wore out our 3 day bus/metro passes! My highlight was the unique architecture and quirky oddities; Denis’ was going up Le Tour Olympique and smoked meat sandwiches. 

Today has been an overcast, drizzly, driving day, good day to recover a bit. After a stop at Costco, we wended our way via back roads along the Richelieu River to Trois-Rivieres. Tomorrow it’s on to Quebec City.

Catching up on 'Old Town' gossip with my friends

Just look what you can to with a Sea-Can

Rainbow Shopping Cart bike locked to a parking post so I had to leave it, much to Denis' relief!
For a minute I considered a trade for my bicycle........

Montreal! Day 1 and 2

We left the trailer at 8:30, a half hour late already. We parked at Longuiel metro station and took the subway downtown, got 3 day unlimited passes so we can the metro and buses to get around. We walked a bit and took a bus, then realized we were not headed in the right direction, got off and walked some more. But we were walking on some very quaint streets, not far from McGill University, I think one of the girls should go there, we'd visit lots! Then Denis realized we were not too far from Schwartz' Montreal smoked meat deli (brisket heaven, CF), I suspect this was the ulterior plan all along. The deli was an experience, we waited in line to get in, there was a place across the street with immediate seating, but we joined the line. Suffice to say the place was crowded, we shared a table with an Asian family, they knew the ordering routine. When you order a sandwich that's all you get, you have to order the pickle and coleslaw extra but our waiter was forgiving. Denis was ecstatic, got the t-shirt and some spices; we could have left Montreal then, oh not yet we have to go back there again!

At Schwartz

After our big lunch, we headed up (walking) Mount Royal,it was still a bit cool so a great time to go. We hiked to the chateau, there's a beautiful lookout over the city, then we continued our hike and made the circuit around the cross. On our way down we met a mounted policeman on a beautiful horse. We certainly walked off some of our huge lunch, by Denis' estimate we did a half marathon (in stages). When we got off the 'mountain' we took the metro to Place Des Arts, right into the middle of the jazz festival. Lots of activity on the streets so we found a place to sit, had some refreshment and people watched. I would have stayed longer but they only served Heinekein and after a couple Denis was ready to move on. We took the metro to Bonaventure, walked around the cathedral, the Sun Life building, which apparently was the tallest building in North America at one time. We followed some blues music, but it was canned at a take-out place, so we continued until we found a pub and had some supper. After that we took the metro back to the truck, a long day!

On Mont Royal with Sonny

Saturday we started a bit later, took the metro to Bonaventure and Denis went to the Canadiens' Hall of Fame. I spent a couple hours walking around the streets it was already sweltering so trying to keep to the shade. We took the metro to Champs de Mer and headed to the old port/old town area. Considered going to Cirque de Soliel, which was on a pier, but didn't. Some old stone walls caught my eye and we wound up taking tour of the building where Marguerite D'Youville started the Grey Nuns. We continued exploring checked out a few shops and vendors, finally found a place where we could 'squeeze' into an outside table and shared our first authentic poutine at Montreal Poutine. We continued our stroll through Chinatown in a slight shower then headed to Place d'Armes and saw the remains of the fortifications which once surrounded the town. We had planned to stay down there later but we were both done for the day so took the metro from there back to the truck and ate at the trailer. Another 'hard' day of holidaying!

That Denis, always the first in the dressing room, everyone else is on the golf course!

We made it to Quebec!

 

Yesterday we visited the Diefenbunker in Carp, just west of Ottawa, brought back a lot of memories of all the talk of nuclear attack from decades ago. Then we went into Ottawa and Denis visited the Aviation Museum while I walked around downtown. I saw the changing of the guard at Rideau Hall and also walked around the beautiful grounds. Also went to Byward Market and Rideau Falls. I walked past 24 Sussex Drive but I guess the Harpers weren't accepting callers because the gates were tightly closed.

This morning we said good-bye to Ottawa, heading south and east through Kemptville, Chesterville and Cornwall. We stumbled across a Winery/Christmas tree farm, very unique and after a generous tasting, we came away with a few bottles. Travelling east from there we crossed into Quebec and stopped at the first tourist info stop and picked up some additional information. We crossed the St. Lawrence and are camped at St. Phillipe, south of Montreal. Now we are trying to figure out what we can fit in the next few days, I hear there are 37 km of underground shopping, guess what I'm doing if it rains?


Only 4 more provinces to go!

Happy Canada Day! from Ottawa

We partook of the famous McCandless hospitality in Perth and exercised our jaws as we enjoyed the AC.


We made it to Ottawa, looked across the river to Quebec

Our path into Ottawa was very straightforward and we found our campground and the park & ride very easily. We enjoyed more wonderful hospitality, Canada Day breakfast with Karen & Kim; also checked out their fantastic new home!

We hopped on the bus and were downtown by 2:30 with thousands of other patriotic, enthusiastic Canadians, you've never seen so much red. We toured the sites and had to restore our energy with some liquid refreshment, the water we brought was too warm to drink. We headed to Parliament Hill for the evening show saw Brett Kissel (Alberta boy); Daniel Lavoie (Denis knew from Dunrae); Whitehorse; Serena Ryder; Veronique Di Clare and others. The evening was capped off by a spectacular fireworks show and a cooling rain. When we left the hill every direction you looked the streets were full of people, but for the most part everyone was flowing in the same direction. It took and hour and a half to get on a bus and get back to the truck. It was worth doing once but I think we will celebrate Canada Day a little quieter next year.

Canada Day at Parliament Hill

And now we are off to check out the Diefenbunker........